I can’t believe I made cannoli! From scratch! And they came out exactly the
way they were supposed to! I am so excited, but before I jump to recipe, I have
a little cannoli story to tell….
I love a good cannoli, but it has to be really, really
good. Very few people have tasted a truly
fine cannoli, you have to be lucky enough to live near or visit some of New
York’s great Italian neighborhoods, where they still do the things old-fashioned
way. And once you taste that perfect
cannoli, nothing less will ever measure up… and you will remember that true, authentic
taste forever…I promise.
There is a young lady I know, who is very near and dear to
my heart, for simplicity I will call her my niece. She is an athlete and has to watch her diet,
but she hangs out enough in my kitchen and that gives me the opportunity to sabotage
her calorie intake just a bit ( I will not say anything further for fear of
incriminating myself, her mother reads this blog…). A few years ago, I took her along with my
kids on “culture the kids up a bit” trip to New York City, and after a long day
of explaining why a black square is considered priceless modern art and trying
not to lose any of them on a subway, we ended up in Little Italy for
dinner. As we were enjoying our meal, I
casually mentioned that for desert, we will go to a tiny special bakery I know
for cannoli. My kids bubbled with excitement and my niece has asked “What is a cannoli?”
at which point I almost fell off my chair.
A child living to eleven years and never tasting a cannoli! Well, I just consider it a special form of
child abuse…. Now I had to make good on
my promise and we did get to taste what I think is the best cannoli in
town. Poor kid, she was so impressed and
she kept remembering that day and that cannoli for years to come.
Now, fast forward a few years, I thought she would make a perfect
partner for my quest to make a great cannoli.
If am not allowed feed the kid all she wants, at least I can teach her
how to cook it! Besides, she is a
teenager now, so if I can keep her in a kitchen for a few hours that is the
time she can’t spend being wrapped around her boyfriend, or so I hope.
Besides, you never know when the skill may become useful,
maybe she’ll need to impress a future Italian mother-in-law, or worse… a
grand-mother-in-law
Cannoli shells do take a bit of work, and by all means you
can buy them unfilled from any neighborhood Italian bakery, but what a sense of
accomplishment is making them yourself, especially if they turn out right. You do have to invest in the steel tubes
though.
The shells can be premade ahead of time and so can the
filling (it will keep for a few hours in the fridge). Fill your cannoli just as you are about to
serve them or they will become soggy.
Cannoli
For the shells
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons of very cold butter cut into cubes
½ tsp cinnamon
¼ tsp of salt
1 ½ teaspoon sugar
8- 9 tablespoons of Marsala wine
1 egg white lightly beaten for sealing the shells
Peanut oil for frying
For the filling
1 lb drained ricotta (See note)
½ cup of super fine sugar
Juice of one lemon
Zest of 1.5 oranges
1 tsp of vanilla extract
Small chocolate chips (optional)
Powdered sugar for dusting
Note: This particular
recipe calls for a really good quality ricotta. A good Italia grocery may have
a homemade ricotta you can use, if not, go with what you can find in a
supermarket. The most important thing is to drain your ricotta at least 4-5 hrs
prior to making the filling (better overnight).
Place the ricotta in cheesecloth in a colander over a
bowl. Put something heavy on top like a
few cans of something and drain in the fridge.
Any excesses liquid will end up in a bowl and you will end up with a
perfectly dry ricotta ready for use.
In the food processor combine the flour, butter, sugar and
salt. Pulse until the mixture resembles
sand. Pour Marsala wine a few
tablespoons at the time; it may take a few less or more for the dough to come
together forming a ball. Knead the dough
a little with your hand, shape it into a disk and refrigerate wrapped in
plastic for at least one hour.
Preheat
your oil to 325-335F. Divide the dough
into 4 parts, roll out each part very thin (about 1/16 of an inch) and cut into
circles with a pastry or a cookie cutter.
Roll
each circle into an oval and wrap it around a steel cannoli tube using the egg whites
to seal the flaps. Flutter the ends with
your fingers so the form funnels.
Fry for 2-3 minutes until golden brown and puffed up and you
see blisters on the shell. After frying
place the tubes on paper towels and slide the cannoli off while it still
hot. You may need to twist it a bit for
easier sliding.
It really helps when one person is frying and the other one
is rolling and preparing the tubes. So
if you got a niece or any other special kid, put them to work.
The shells should cool completely on paper towels, and
should be kept uncovered until ready to fill.
For the filling, combine all the ingredients in a bowl of a
stand in mixer, whip until fluffy and all sugar has dissolved.
Pipe the filling into each cannoli, garnish each end with a
few chocolate chips and dust with powdered sugar.
I tell you, sharing a “Holly shit, we made cannoli!” moment
with my niece was one of the most gratifying moments my kitchen has ever
seen. Maybe they were that delicious,
maybe they were so hard to make or maybe because we were in it together,
learning, laughing, rolling….
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